Days 6 and 7 -- Continuing the trek Northward

Summary:

• Drive from Stewart BC to Liard Natural Hot Springs (2 days driving)
• Distance travelled: (875.5 km; 318.9 km the first day and 556.6 km the second)
• Time on the road:  4.5 hrs first day; 8 hrs second day
• Winning decisions: (1)
• purchasing new windshield wipers before leaving Victoria
• Regrettable Decisions: (1)
• Not being able to get a decent photo of ANYTHING
• Wildlife seen: (1)
• Geese (and either a very large white goose or a swan ... random, I know)
• Mallards (or ducks, if you prefer)
• Gopher (or maybe it was a beaver, I don't know.  It ran across the road)
• Hawk (or some other bird of prey)
• Moose
• Bobcat
• Caribou
• Fox
• Bison
• Black Bear

Every time I read my "northward" or "journey north" title, I can't help but hear "North! to Alaska!" ... a song (maybe the theme song) to the John Wayne movie by the same title, even though I'm not actually going to Alaska (other than my short visit from Stewart).  Although, I did spend a portion of the afternoon on the Alaska Highway.  I guess that's what happens when you cut your teeth on westerns with your dad.  Anyway ... 

The ladies of Temptations bakery in Stewart, BC

Before leaving Stewart, I took a short stroll along the local Estuary boardwalk.  It wasn’t much of a jog … but it was a good stretch of the legs.  Before leaving Stewart, I had a quick breakfast at Temptations Bakery & Deli, a place that has “the best buns in town”.  The woman that runs it was incredibly friendly, singing and dancing her way through the morning.  

Estuary boardwalk in Stewar

Tuesday was the first day with a few rain drops (and I actually had a few short rain showers on Wednesday) … I wasn’t sure how bad it was going to be.  After the first use of my windshield wipers, I realized that they were in terrible shape.  The, winningest (so far) decision of the trip is that I purchased extra wipers before I left Victoria.  Yay me!  It’s the first use of my extra car gear … here’s hoping it’s the only use I actually need on this trip.

That is a moose ... my first moose

The first day’s drive went fairly quick but it was a bit exciting.  It finally happened!  I’ve lived in Canada for more than 5 years and, just yesterday, Tuesday, saw my first moose! As I came around the corner at ~ 80 kph, there he/she was, standing in the middle of the highway, just staring at me.  As the moose saw the car, it started trotting down the highway away from me.  The day’s regrettable decision is that I didn’t get my camera out fast enough to be able to take a picture.  Having been warned that the moose always wins in the moose/car duel (thanks, all you Newfies), I was too busy keeping a close eye on the moose to get a decent picture. 

I stopped for the day at the Red Goat Lodge on Eddontenajon Lake at Loon’s Beak mountain (I don't know why it's called Red Goat Lodge ... I saw no goats, and not even anything painted red ... but it's a beautiful spot).  

Eddontenajon Lake

I had grand plans of hiking in the afternoon and exploring the wilderness (and maybe seeing another moose).  Instead, I napped all afternoon.  It was glorious.  After a good night's sleep, I started a marathon day of driving.  I was on the road for quite a while, but given everything I saw, it was totally worth it.

Caribou out for a stroll

The day's adventure started after I'd already been on the road for an hour or so; up ahead of me, I saw what looked to be able to size of a large dog on the side of the road in front of me.  I had the thought, "who on earth owns this dog in the middle of nowhere?".  As I got closer, the animal started slinking across the highway and I saw it was a HUGE bobcat (I assume a bobcat; big mountain-y cat with a short tail).  The thing paid me no mind as it stopped in the middle of the highway, just surveying it's territory.  Once it got out of the way, I started to continue only to see two caribou about 100 meters in front of me.  After yesterday's camera debacle with the moose (and me missing the bobcat), I grabbed my phone to try and snag a decent shot of these two reindeer (it was so deflating, when I was informed just last year that caribou and reindeer are the same animal ... like crushing a little kid's dream).  These two ambled along on the road in front of me for a solid 5 minutes before deciding mosey on out of my way.

Along the drive

Only a few miles after seeing the caribou, I see ... MY SECOND MOOSE ... these moose are certainly camera shy ... before I could get my phone up, it was gone.  This one had to be a bull (I think) because it had a huge set of antlers on its head.  I'm still mad that I don't have a photograph.

Hello Mr. Fox ... you appear fairly close

As I wound my way up highway 37 towards the Yukon, I saw a few more caribou and a curious little fox along the side of the road ... I stopped to try to get a photo and he walked right up to my car ... and the proceeded to hide from me and my camera.  After several hours on the road, I crossed into the Yukon and made my way to Watson Lake for a refuel and a stroll through the sign forest.  And then ... the real excitement began ... 

more pretty scenery

Baby bison!

Not long after leaving Watson Lake, I started finding the sides of the highway full of Bison and Black Bears.  Seriously, herds of Bison ... just chilling.  And black bears (one or two together) munching away.  They don't even look up or take a pause as cars drive by.  It was amazing.  I took SO MANY pictures of the bison ... so few of them turned out.  C'est la vie.  

There could be only one or two bison chilling at one spot ... or the entire herd ... including the adorable calves!

he looks angrier than I'm sure he was

I considered having a bison burger for my dinner this evening ... but decided I needed some veggies and settled for a salad (boring I know).

That's a bear up there, I swear!

I was amazed to see the black bears basically right across the highway from the bison.  I don't know ... I assumed that they'd be afraid of each other ... but  I guess if cars and trucks zipping by doesn't bother them, why would a little black bear.

really, it's a bear!

Got a little closer this time (through car window)

During one of my pitstops today, I narrowly avoided being pulled into a caravan of folks traveling "to spread the good news" ... it started out all innocent.  Older gentleman at the gas pump next to mine says "hi there, beautiful day!".  I respond "yes it is".  He says "you travelin' alone" ... I, not being able to lie since all seats in the CRV except the driver's seat are covered with stuff (my travel style is messy), respond "yup".  Old man: "where you from".  "I live in Halifax".  "What you doing up here?"  "Driving cross Canada the long way" ... then things got a bit weird.  The older gentleman continues, "we're heading to Telegraph Creek to tell them some good news!"  He  must have seen from my face that I was very confused so he continued... "there have been some wildfires up this way and we're going to visit them.  Do you know the good news?".  I responded "well I had heard about some wildfires in the area but none right now".  Without hesitation, the older man says "why don't you come to Telegraph Creek with us".  Just like that, he invites me along ... I had already been giving him the side eye but figured it was time to step up my game ... "Telegraph Creek; that road is all gravel, right?  I've had some tire trouble and I don't want to chance it."  Again, without skipping a beat, the man chirps "your tires look fine.  Besides, there are 12 of us and we're traveling with a mechanic.  You'll be fine".  At this point, I start looking behind me to make sure the other 11 vehicles don't have me surrounded ... they must not have sensed him ready to pounce because I didn't see any others in sight.  I made my final excuse "I've got a long way to go and really can't take that amount of time.  Good luck".  Not ready to give in yet, the man says, "well I've got some pamphlets.  Can I give you those for you to read when you're taking a break".  Sensing this as one of those pick your battle moments, I acquiesced and accepted the pamphlets ... only so I could make my get away.  As I suspected ... they're a Jehovah's Witness publication ... 

... this is why I don't talk to people ... more often than not, they turn out to be in a cult  ... if I don't talk to another soul on my journey, you now know why.

I'm settled in for the night and have don't actually plan to drive tomorrow.  I'm going to enjoy the local area, hike a few trails, and soak in the natural hot springs.  Then, up to the Northwest Territory on Friday!